Chapter 114: One Emperor, Eight Banners

We’re all Northeasterners from that region, where ginseng thrives, where pork stewed with vermicelli is a staple, and where everyone is lively and spirited…

“Cuìhuā, bring the sauerkraut!”

Sauerkraut stewed with pork belly and blood sausage is a dish nearly every household knows how to make, but the most authentic version comes from the century-old establishment, a culinary treasure passed down through generations.

Founded as early as the Tongzhi era of the Qing Dynasty, in 1874, its founder, Naji, hailed from Shenyang and was a Manchu of the Plain White Banner.

Drawing on the folk traditions and Manchu customs of slaughtering pigs during festivals to enjoy blood sausage, they enhanced their existing dishes like sautéed liver and "three delicacies" by adding pork belly and blood sausage, swiftly gaining fame and becoming a household name.

Upon entering the restaurant, you are ushered into a private room where a steaming table laden with signature dishes awaits. First and foremost is the steamed pork belly, prepared from thin-skinned, tender pork shoulder. The meat is cut into rectangular slabs six inches long and four inches wide.

After washing, it is simmered until about seventy to eighty percent cooked, then removed to cool. It is sliced thinly, placed in a steamer, and steamed briefly. The meat curls slightly, rich and fragrant without being greasy, melting tenderly on the palate.

Another dish, called “Tiger Skin Pork,” uses the same cuts and techniques but differs by roasting the pork slabs over an open flame until golden before simmering them fully. The meat boasts a golden hue, tender and flavorful, rich without heaviness.

What pleased Mr. Johnson most was the blood sausage, made from fresh pig’s blood, encased in thoroughly washed small intestines. After stuffing, the sausages are gently simmered in boiling water, then cooled in cold water.

The blood sausages gleam brightly, fresh and tender. Served with accompaniments like chive blossoms, fermented tofu, chili oil, and crushed garlic, their flavor is even more mellow and enticing—truly a dish that delights the senses.

Of course, to endure for over a century, this prestigious house must innovate as well as preserve tradition. For instance, their signature dish bears an invincible and imposing name:

“The One Emperor, Eight Banners!”

This features a secret-recipe roasted squab, killed fresh on the spot to preserve vitality in the flesh, allowing it to absorb the seasoning thoroughly. Roasted whole with the skin on in a hanging oven, its skin crisps golden and fragrant with oil gleaming, while the meat inside remains incredibly tender—crispy on the outside, succulent within.

Their secret marinated beef blends select cuts from two-year-old yellow cattle: ribs, chuck, and cap, balancing lean and fat in harmonious layers. The key lies in the mixing—the meat is dipped in various Eight Banner secret sauces during roasting, revealing countless nuanced flavors in a single pot. The aroma fills the air, evoking for Mr. Johnson an image of the far northern frontier, where refined elegance and genuine simplicity intertwine.

Spicy beef cubes are made from aged yellow cattle rib cuts, large, thick pieces with alternating fat and lean, their grain clearly visible. Mixed with secret seasoning and auxiliary spices, they are roasted to medium rare. The sizzling meat releases a captivating aroma, full and tender, with a springy texture that leaves a lasting fragrance on the lips and palate.

A secret marinated brisket, sliced and soaked in special seasoning before roasting, becomes translucent and glossy. It requires no sauce, crisp and delicious with an unforgettable aftertaste and superb texture.

The “Blade-cut Pork Belly,” a specialty of the northern frontier and Eight Banner cuisine, is roughly two and a half iPhone 7s in length. Carefully selected with even fat distribution, the pork is sliced diagonally to allow the fat to slowly render out.

Thick-cut slabs are roasted until the fat oozes out, then cut into strips. Eaten plain or dipped in richly flavored sweet or spicy barbecue sauce, the meat crisps to perfection, fragrant and tender.

Eat heartily, drink deeply—exhilarating!

To finish, a large bowl of Korean cold noodles is served, featuring a specially prepared cold broth topped with thin slices of beef, spicy kimchi, boiled egg, cucumber threads, and pear strips. The noodles are fine and resilient, refreshing on the palate with a balanced tangy heat.

On a early summer day, a bowl of these cold noodles cools the body, quenches thirst, and refreshes like never before.

After a restful night, the journey heads straight to Dalian, a city many online describe as warm, naturally imbued with romance and poetic charm.

Though located in the Northeast, the dialect and atmosphere feel somewhat out of place.

Classical Roman columns, European-style domes, Russian architecture, Baroque, Byzantine, and traditional classical buildings line the streets.

Walking through the city, one might easily be transported to a small European town.

This is likely because, a century ago, a group of Russian engineers enamored with French culture arrived here with blueprints of Paris, dreaming of recreating an “Eastern Paris” on this Far Eastern soil.

They named the settlement Dalniy, meaning “distant,” which eventually became Dalian in Chinese transliteration.

Strolling along the scenic street, many buildings from the old Russian White émigré period remain, some over a hundred years old. At the far end stands a grand Russian-style building that once housed the Dalniy city hall. Nearby, a beautiful European structure once served as the office of the East Qing Steamship Company.

Driving along the coastal highway, the stunning sea views stretch over thirty kilometers, starting east from Sea Melody Park, Bangchuidao Island, to Tiger Beach Ocean Park. The middle section includes Yanwo Ridge, Beida Bridge, and Xiuyue Peak.

To the west lie the Forest Zoo and Xinghai Square. Riding the city sightseeing bus, one can enjoy a bowl of stir-fried glutinous rice cakes drenched in sesame sauce…

Heading straight to the harbor, a yacht is chartered for a trip to Zhangzi Island, the southernmost point of the Changshan Archipelago, about one hundred kilometers from Dalian. It’s a beautiful island in the Yellow Sea.

The boat ride lasts over three hours. Being far from the mainland and with colder water temperatures than other areas, the seafood here surpasses that from other seas. December, in particular, is sea cucumber harvesting season, when snow blankets the sea and fishing boats dot the waters, creating a unique spectacle.

The island boasts top-tier seafood such as thorny sea cucumbers, wrinkled abalone, Ezo scallops, sea snails, sea urchins, purple stone clams, and hermit crabs.

Upon arrival, it’s clear why this is a prosperous town: European-style buildings with white walls and red roofs, two-story houses nestled gracefully among green hills and clear waters. The streets are wide and well-planned, backed by mountains and facing the sea, elegant and refreshing, reminiscent of Provence.

Warm hospitality is a local hallmark, expressed in a saying: “Dumplings when boarding, noodles when disembarking.” It means guests must be served noodles at home, symbolizing a safe journey and the hope they linger longer on Zhangzi Island.

If rough weather delays the boat, there’s no need to fret. Relax and extend your stay; the locals’ warmth moves even the heavens—when people won’t leave, neither will the sky.

On departure, guests must eat “Wind-favorable dumplings,” shaped like ancient gold ingots, symbolizing wishes for wealth and a smooth journey.

At the most luxurious fisherman's inn, rooms go for 999 yuan per night. The next morning, a chartered boat takes guests out to sea for fishing and dining. According to the owner, the current water temperature is ideal, with abundant food. Many fish are ravenous after spawning, eagerly devouring anything in sight.

Especially the black sea bass, preparing to migrate southward into deeper waters, voraciously feeding to replenish energy.

Guests can try their luck with sea fishing aboard an 18-meter fishing boat, accommodating up to ten people, costing only five thousand yuan for a full day. The owner provides the best fishing gear and a seasoned chef. Tomorrow, the sails rise—an experience of fishing amidst the boundless sea awaits.

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