Chapter 146: Dreams Come True
Steamed minced beef patties with aged tangerine peel: the aged tangerine peel and minced beef, mixed with starch, are set over heat to steam. The minced meat is reasonably tender, and the tangerine peel cuts through the greasiness. Overall, it is standard and barely reaches the level of a star-rated restaurant.
The more Zhuang Chen ate, the more disappointed he became, until the stewed bird's nest with coconut milk was served. The bird's nest stole the spotlight, generous in portion, fragrant, rich, and silky smooth upon entering the mouth. Closing one's eyes, that vibrant and exquisite flavor lingered in the mouth, as vivid as if it were right before him...
Although it cost 899 a bowl.
Lung King Heen smoked pigeon with Longjing and chrysanthemum: the subtle, elusive smoky flavor brought by the two types of tea leaves, Longjing and chrysanthemum, was refreshing and novel. The pigeon skin was exceptionally crispy, and the meat was tender and soft.
The flakiness of the skin and the tenderness of the meat evoked memories of crispy skin chicken, but with an extra hint of ethereal tea aroma. If one didn't savor it carefully, it vanished in an instant...
Stir-fried clams with Thai basil and chili paste: the fragrance of Thai basil combined with the sweet and spicy taste of chili paste. Paired with fresh sea clams, it was full of flavor upon the palate, unexpectedly mingling with the magical taste of braised beef brisket.
Perhaps the chef had added rich oxtail broth during the stir-frying process, imparting another layer of rich fragrance.
Steamed flower crab with chicken fat and Hua Diao wine served over Chencun rice noodles: as soon as it was served, the aroma of wine filled the air. The waiter instructed that it should be tossed in the golden-yellow chicken fat and Hua Diao sauce.
Taking a bite, the homemade Chencun rice noodles were not as springy as imagined, with a slight stickiness between the strands, but paired with the deliciously savory and salty Hua Diao sauce, it possessed a unique charm that touched the heart...
Eighteen-flavor soy sauce chicken: a must-order for every table, made with local free-range Sanhuang live chickens from the New Territories. It is steeped in a soy sauce broth flavored with Sichuan peppercorns, cloves, cardamom, and star anise.
To maintain the tender texture, a hint of earthy gaminess is even deliberately retained, allowing one to taste a profound, deeply rooted Hong Kong flavor that traces back to its origins.
Braised shiitake and sheep mushrooms with bean curd skin: the sheep mushrooms were tender and free of grit, of superior quality. The multi-layered bean curd skin was reportedly purchased from a time-honored establishment, exuding a rich bean aroma. The bean curd skin absorbed the deliciousness of both types of mushrooms, elevating a vegetarian dish into a creation of profound and lingering depth...
Later, he learned that if guests did not wish to order from the menu, they could make special requests to the waiter. If the kitchen had the ingredients, the chef could prepare it even if it wasn't on the menu.
Setting down his chopsticks, apart from the service, everything else was fairly standard, perhaps because his standards for the flavors of Chinese cuisine were more demanding. Perhaps due to lifelong immersion, the presentation of many flavors was already thoroughly ingrained in his mind.
Therefore, upon tasting, everything felt familiar, ordinary, and devoid of surprise, rarely offering a sense of pleasant astonishment. Thus, his evaluative criteria for Chinese restaurants inevitably rose unconsciously.
The restaurant had few guests. Summoning the lobby manager for a chat, he heard that the head chef today was named Chen Youliang, who actually made a living as a boxer thirty years ago?
Hence his motto: Cooking is like boxing, knowing oneself and the enemy is paramount!
Watching him stir-fry was somewhat like watching a boxing match: a ladle of oil went in, flames shot three feet high, the wok leaped and the ingredients jumped, one action following another, swift and decisive.
In just a few short minutes, the tender vegetables had absorbed the flavors and were plated and served. What made this possible was not only experience, but also the right emotions, inspiration, and tactile sensitivity.
Starting from a kitchen helper delivering ingredients to becoming the head chef of Fook Lam Moon today, even gambling tycoons, Cheng Yu-tung, and Ho Tim had specifically requested him to host their family banquets.
Proudly, he brought out book after book of old ledgers containing menus from ten or twenty years ago. Through the hazy paper, names could be faintly discerned: Ho Tim, founder of Hang Seng Bank; Robert Kuok, the Sugar King of Asia; Woo Hon-fai of Wing Lung Bank; Li Ka-shing, the richest man; Stanley Ho, the gambling king...
The true essence of Cantonese cuisine lies in preserving its original flavors; even if blindfolded, a diner can identify the food. To cook Cantonese cuisine well relies first on craftsmanship, and second on ingredients. One must savor time and origin.
There is no pursuit of flashy presentation; carving vegetables for garnishing is firmly rejected. Whether it is a basket of shrimp dumplings or a plate of stir-fried shark's fin, once prepared, they are simply piled together and plated. Coriander and carrot flowers are entirely absent.
The supreme broth must be made with old chickens weighing over four pounds, pork shank, and the middle part of Jinhua ham's rear leg—with bones and fat removed—which yields the utmost umami flavor, simmered over low heat for eight hours.
Chicken dishes must use Sanhuang free-range chickens; only when the skin is not overly fatty and the meat is firm will it absorb the flavors. Requiring a minimum of 120 days, with enough subcutaneous fat, after being air-dried and scalded with boiling oil, that layer of crispy skin can be considered invincible.
For instance, the braised shiitake and sheep mushrooms with bean curd skin mentioned earlier was a variation of Hua Diao baked chicken. Traditionally, dried mushrooms would be used, but after accidentally tasting morel mushrooms once, inspiration struck. Their unique aroma endowed the entire dish with a rich fungal fragrance that lingered on the teeth and cheeks.
What can be done? Time-honored establishments simply possess a mysterious and unshakeable self-confidence!
Returning to the hotel, he called to make an appointment with Mr. Ni Kuang—no, the text mentions Cha Chuan/Cai Lan (Tsui Hark / Chua Lam / Cailan). Since the prompt requires translating "蔡澜" as Chua Lam (or Cailan), let's use Chua Lam. Returning to the hotel, he called to make an appointment with Mr. Chua Lam, which was the main purpose of his trip to Hong Kong Island. One of the four great talents of Hong Kong Island in the last century, Louis Cha's evaluation of his longtime friend Chua Lam was: a truly carefree person.
What kind of person can be considered carefree? Louis Cha used his own characters as an allegory: that would be Linghu Chong, not Guo Jing or Qiao Feng.
He was Louis Cha's ultimate travel companion, with a straightforward and unrestrained disposition, a relaxed and lively mindset, always laughing off unpleasantness during travels.
He never complained that the food was unpalatable, nor that the car was too bumpy, but instead taught Louis Cha how to drink the cheapest, harshest Italian table wine, and how to suck marrow from ox bones at dai pai dongs.
Broad-minded, knowledgeable, worldly-wise, with male and female friends all over the world. Before his heart attack, one of Louis Cha's greatest joys in life was drinking whiskey and smoking cigarettes while chatting with Chua Lam.
He knew how to eat, how to drink, and how to play.
Together with Louis Cha, Ni Kuang, and James Wong, he was hailed as one of the Four Talents, yet he favored another title above all else:
A Connoisseur of Life!
Zhuang Chen was a die-hard fan, having bought all his idol's books and read every single interview. Especially this year when Lu Yu came to interview Mr. Chua, taking her around wet markets and eating authentic dai pai dongs—he felt nothing but envy, jealousy, and hatred...
It even influenced his entire worldview: what is true freedom of spirit?
To live like Chua Lam—
That is what you call a life!
Receiving a positive reply, agreeing to meet tomorrow morning at eight, he was immensely excited. He took out a premium bottle of Bordeaux he had prepared especially, knowing the elderly gentleman enjoyed a drink, considering it a welcoming gift.
Waking up at six the next morning, he tidied up, arrived early at the appointed place, and eagerly awaited his idol's appearance.
Just past eight, a familiar figure slowly approached: a head of white hair with a youthful complexion, wearing a white Tang suit and carrying his habitual yellow cloth bag.
He hurried over, somewhat excitedly saying, "Hello, Mr. Chua, I am Zhuang Chen."
"Good, good, let's talk as we walk!" Chua Lam showed a warm smile, patted Zhuang Chen's shoulder, and pulled him along, chatting as they walked.
Zhuang Chen felt a bit nervous, recalled the lines he had prepared, and tentatively asked, "Are we going to visit the wet market?"
"Hahaha, excellent, looks like you've done your homework?" Chua Lam smiled. "When friends come from afar, as long as time permits, I love taking them for a stroll through the wet markets, because..."
"To truly understand a city, you must visit its wet markets!" Zhuang Chen couldn't help chiming in. "Teacher Chen said you love browsing wet markets the most."
Chua Lam laughed heartily, forming a favorable impression of Zhuang Chen. The two walked and talked as they headed toward the wet market.
Despite the elderly gentleman approaching eighty, his legs were nimble, and when crossing the street, he even reminded Zhuang Chen to mind his safety. Arriving in front of the wet market, he sighed, "I usually love cooking, so I have a special fondness for wet markets. I often bring guests along to walk and explore, so that we can better understand Hong Kong."
"Because here, there is no whitewashed prosperity and peace; what remains is only the truest, freshest flavors of radishes and cabbages, which is the original appearance of urban life."