Chapter 22: Red Wine and Cheese

A thousand cups are too few when wine is shared with a kindred spirit; there was truly a feeling of regret at meeting so late. Ding Mengyao led Zhuang Chen straight to the very heart of the wine cellar, a place strictly off-limits to outsiders.

It was Zhuang Chen’s first time seeing a genuine wine cellar. He gazed at the rows of large barrels of varying colors, filled with curiosity.

Ding Mengyao approached a deep brown barrel and explained, “The finest wines in the world are all aged in oak barrels. During fermentation, a chemical interaction occurs between the wine and the oak, making the wine’s flavors more complex and its quality superior.”

“Oak barrels can be categorized by their grain—tight, medium, or loose. Most debates center on whether French or American oak is superior.”

Zhuang Chen nodded inwardly and began to distinguish the quality of the barrels by scent, for oak barrels must be breathable. The wine lost to evaporation is called ‘the angels’ share.’

The oxygen entering through this breathability allows the wine to undergo intricate chemical reactions in the barrel, which serve to soften the tannins.

If wine is stored in a new oak barrel, tannins from the wood seep into the wine, making it more astringent. But as oxidation occurs over time, the maturation of the wine softens the tannins faster than the wine absorbs new tannins. This is why older oak barrels are so precious—much like the patina on antiques.

Ding Mengyao understood that Zhuang Chen was not yet versed in these technicalities and smiled as she introduced, “When it comes to different types of oak, the most important criterion is the tightness of the grain, which determines how tannins are formed and thus the rate at which wine evaporates.”

She approached another barrel and touched it, saying, “American oak is cross-grained, with a distinctive flavor and relatively low porosity. It has a high level of lactone, which sweetens the wine. Typical aromas from American oak are coconut, vanilla, and so on. This particular barrel, for instance, is a premium barrel with over a hundred years of age.”

She then moved to another barrel. “And this one comes from Limousin—a French oak with looser grain. It usually imparts a refined spiciness to the wine, sharing notes of dry ginger, cloves, cedar, and cigar box.”

“In the past, people thought American oak was cheaper and thus not on par with French oak. The reason was that the American industry initially produced barrels for spirits and didn’t focus on precision or subtlety. But now, with improved cooperage techniques, American oak barrels can compete with some of the world’s finest.”

She slowly came to a noticeably lighter-colored barrel and smiled. “Hungarian oak suffered a loss of reputation for decades due to mismanagement, but today it’s emerging as the main alternative to French oak. This barrel’s grain is similar to French oak, but it has a more pronounced acidic aroma.”

Zhuang Chen listened attentively and made careful mental notes. The world of wine, with its centuries-old culture, was vast and profound—a unique allure.

After her brief introduction, Ding Mengyao sighed, “Actually, I’m just beginning to learn about oak barrels myself. There are subtle differences in fermentation with different types of oak, and even the method of drying can affect the wine in subtle ways. It’s all very complex and intricate.”

Zhuang Chen smiled, “Isn’t that one of the charms of wine tasting?”

Ding Mengyao’s eyes sparkled. Talking with Zhuang Chen was effortless—a rare pleasure to meet a peer who truly understood wine, and her mood was bright.

She turned, picked up a standard six-ounce wine glass, opened a barrel, and drew a glass of red wine, saying, “Even the wine glass matters. This one can be used for any type of wine; its medium-sized bowl narrows toward the rim, directing the aromas right to the lip.”

She handed the glass to Zhuang Chen for him to taste first. He took it, raised it gently, and swirled it slowly. “I’ve often heard that the quality of red wine can be judged by the ‘legs’ on the glass. Is there a secret to it?”

Ding Mengyao replied seriously, “In my experience, the legs or streaks left by wine on the glass have nothing to do with its taste, but they can be closely related to the body and age of the wine.”

“If the wine leaves no legs or they’re barely visible, it’s usually a thin wine—meaning it’s heavily blended and contains little original grape juice. It’s definitely not good wine.”

“If there are legs and they linger for a long time, it generally means the wine was made from pure grape juice and aged in oak barrels for a long period. That’s usually an older vintage.”

“Wine with visible legs tends to be of higher quality, more expensive, and longer-lasting, with a rich and mellow taste. That’s why the basic theory on the market is that wine with legs is always better than wine without.”

Suddenly, as if remembering something, she laughed. “People in our country tend to be sensitive about sediment in wine, thinking it’s unhygienic. This influences producers, so most wines on the market are free of sediment.”

“In fact, a genuine bottle of wine with sediment—where you can sense the residue on your tongue—is something to celebrate. You’re drinking a wine of true character. In foreign wines, sediment is a hallmark of fine wine, a sign of authenticity.”

“So that’s how it is!” Zhuang Chen felt the visit was worthwhile. As they chatted and sipped, he savored the unique taste of wine drawn directly from the barrel—a rare treat.

Ding Mengyao selected several prized bottles from the cellar and returned to the private room, taking several boxes from the cabinet and placing them on the table, opening them one by one.

“Cheese?”

Zhuang Chen looked in surprise at the array of creamy cheeses covering the table. “What’s the meaning of this?”

Ding Mengyao smiled brightly, pointing to the cheeses. “These are my personal collection. Actually, cheese is the perfect companion for red wine! Cheese makes wine taste sweeter and rounder, while wine suppresses the musty or pungent flavors of cheese, making it even more delicious.”

“The nutrients in milk are concentrated tenfold in cheese, and the amino acids in cheese help liver function and effectively break down alcohol, making it healthier.”

She glanced at Zhuang Chen, teasing, “These are specially ordered from their place of origin, meant for my own secret enjoyment. Today, you’re just lucky!”

Zhuang Chen laughed heartily, eyeing the dazzling selection. He picked up a plate and asked, “Should different wines be paired with different cheeses? How do you choose?”

“It’s quite simple. Ordinary cheese and wine from the same or neighboring regions always go well together—products from the same terroir are naturally compatible.”

“For instance, the one you’re holding should be Parmigiano-Reggiano from Emilia-Romagna, one of the most famous cheese brands.”

“It pairs well with aromatic wines—like the new releases from Château Lafite, as well as wines from Château Nabu and Château Cameron. Try this one,” she said, opening a bottle and pouring Zhuang Chen a glass, inviting him to pair it with the cheese.

Zhuang Chen eagerly took the glass. “Since you say so, I have to see what makes it different.”

He took a piece of cheese with a small fork, placed it in his mouth, waited a moment, then raised the glass and sipped. Instantly, his face was transformed by pleasure, utterly absorbed.

A flavor unlike any before exploded in his mouth, sweeping his palate like a storm—complex and marvelous beyond description!

He was conquered in a moment by the wondrous taste, closing his eyes and losing himself in the passionate collision of cheese and wine.

“Amazing!”