Chapter Twenty-Three: Let’s Try Farming
The pickled fish made that evening used vegetables from the old family vat. According to Second Sister Zhang, that vat had a history of seventy or eighty years, dating back to when her great-grandfather started the brine. Every summer, it was filtered and refreshed: old pickles were eaten, new ones added, and the brine never mixed with anything else. It looked clear and bright, and the pickles that came out were always crisp and fresh.
If transportation were more convenient, she would have liked to take a bottle of that brine home to start a new vat herself.
The noodles here were all homemade from sweet potatoes. Chen Xin grabbed a generous handful and soaked them in clear water, so that after the fish was finished, the vegetables and noodles could be cooked in the broth, making for another delicious course.
Pickled fish is a dish equally suited to grand banquets and humble family tables; there are refined recipes for the wealthy and rustic flavors for the farmer. A large iron pot was heated with oil, then slices of ginger and garlic were sautéed until fragrant. Shredded pickled vegetables, sour chilies, and pickled ginger were added and stir-fried to release their aroma. A dozen or so peppercorns were sprinkled in for flavor, along with a touch of sugar, then water was poured in and brought to a boil. After simmering for ten minutes, the fragrance of the pickles permeated the broth. The fish head and bones, stripped of flesh, were then added to deepen the flavor.
Once the broth began to turn milky white, the heat was reduced and the temperature allowed to drop slightly, with just a gentle bubbling at the surface. At this stage, the previously filleted fish was sliced into centimeter-thick pieces, marinated with pepper, cooking wine, salt, and starch, then swiftly placed into the soup piece by piece with chopsticks. After all the fish was added, the heat was increased slightly, maintaining a gentle simmer without allowing it to boil vigorously, to keep the fish slices intact.
When ready to serve, two spoonfuls of minced garlic and peppercorns were sprinkled on top, followed by a ladle of hot oil poured over to release the garlic’s aroma and turn it golden. Finally, coriander and chopped scallions were scattered atop the soup.
Besides the large bowl of pickled fish, there were also stir-fried shredded pork with pickled radish, braised cured pig’s feet in sauce, a cold appetizer of vegetables in spicy oil, and several dishes brought over by the neighbor aunt, filling the entire table.
This time, Chen Xin specially filled a small bowl to be sent to Third Grandpa’s family in the village by her eldest brother.
He was the most senior elder in the family. At lunch, it hadn’t been convenient to share dishes, but in the evening, the pickled fish was suitable for the old man. Chen Xin had thoughtfully layered the bottom of the bowl with soft and tender vegetables and noodles before pouring the flavorful pickled fish on top, making it a satisfying portion for a family of four.
Eldest Brother Zhang carried the dish to Third Grandpa’s house, and along the way, many people asked what he was carrying that smelled so delicious. When they learned it was a meal personally cooked by the distinguished guest at his home, a few of the village women began making plans in their minds.
Chen Xin had no idea what they were thinking, but the neighbor aunt later mentioned it privately to Second Sister Zhang.
“Aunt, you’re overthinking it, that’s impossible,” Second Sister Zhang replied as she washed the dishes. “Chen Xin is a university student and a city girl. She would never agree to marry into our village.”
“How do you know if you don’t try? She seems like someone who’d make a good wife. If she and your eldest brother got together, your nephew wouldn’t have to worry about what would happen after his aunt married off.”
The aunt meant well, but Second Sister Zhang, having seen more of the world with her husband, knew that Chen Xin had only brought Zhang Zhang back because she was kind-hearted. If they continued to be ungrateful, why should she choose to suffer here? Besides, for all her capable work, Chen Xin’s speech and manners were unmistakably urban. Staying a few days in the countryside was fine, but she would never settle here for long.
What’s more, her eldest brother had a physical disability and only a middle school education. He and Chen Xin were from entirely different worlds. If it were the younger brother, perhaps there’d be a chance, but for the eldest, it was better to honestly marry a dependable local girl.
Seeing Second Sister Zhang shake her head, the aunt didn’t pursue it further. It was just a passing thought; if she had a suitable candidate in her own family, she wouldn’t let the eldest Zhang take advantage.
Later that night, as Second Sister Zhang lay in bed with her husband, she somehow brought up the aunt’s idea.
“It’s better not to think that way,” her husband, a sensible man, replied. “Working in an office and scraping by in the countryside are two different worlds. I chatted with Chen Xin this afternoon; she has clear plans for her future and likely intends to continue her studies. The gap is just too great—no common topics, and with her being so capable and your brother’s limitations, it wouldn’t work.”
“That’s exactly how I feel, but from the aunt’s tone, I think she believes I’m not looking out for my brother,” Second Sister Zhang sighed. “Our family situation here is still pretty good for the village. At least we have a little money left behind by my younger brother, so while things are tight, we’re not destitute. But even so, because my brother’s leg is bad, no decent girl is willing to consider him. The only ones interested are widows, and my mother refuses to accept that.”
“Actually, your older brother isn’t that old. In a couple of years, when things are a bit easier, set aside some savings for the family, and eventually, someone will be willing.”
Her husband wasn’t just offering empty comfort. At his workplace, there was a widowed contract worker in logistics—good natured, with no children. He thought to sound her out after the New Year and, if she was willing, perhaps even arrange for his brother-in-law to get a job as a security guard or doorman at the company or a subsidiary. He had also come home this time wanting his wife to persuade her mother-in-law not to be so prejudiced against widows, to look at each case on its merits.
If possible, he even hoped to discuss it with Chen Xin, thinking she might have more success persuading his mother-in-law. But such things couldn’t be brought up right after meeting; it would be better to wait another couple of days, after they’d all become more familiar.
The next morning, Second Sister Zhang gently woke Chen Xin at half past four, carrying Zhang Zhang into her own room to sleep. Her husband and the neighbor aunt were already up and ready, waiting for Chen Xin to get up and have breakfast before setting out.
People had to leave early for market day, and with travel time, they wouldn’t reach the town until at least half past six or seven. That was when all the vendors would be set up, offering the best selection. Go too late, and much would already be sold out, making the trip a waste.
Many people from the village went to market, some even rising at three to claim a good spot to sell their wares, grabbing a steamed bun at the town as breakfast.
Chen Xin, flashlight in hand, followed behind the neighbor aunt, stumbling along uneven ground, with her eldest brother and brother-in-law bringing up the rear as the main labor force.
Since Chen Xin couldn’t keep up with the rural pace, it was already seven when they arrived in town and dawn was breaking. The streets were crowded with vendors selling everything imaginable. This was one of only two markets before the New Year; two days later there would be another in the neighboring Shiqiao Town, and after that, the markets would close until the second day of the New Year, when vendors would return. So everyone needed to stock up now.
In previous years, Second Sister Zhang and her husband had spent the New Year with her in-laws, leaving only three people at the Zhang household, so a simple meal sufficed. But this year, with so many people, Old Lady Zhang pressed money into her son’s hand, urging him to buy plenty.
Once in town, the neighbor aunt went off to buy clothes and shoes for her family, and they split up. Chen Xin had already bought most necessities for the Zhang family, only needing to purchase fresh vegetables, meat, and eggs. She was also curious to see if there were any business opportunities at the market.
But upon arrival, she realized that this mountain town was still rather run-down, nothing like prosperous plains towns near big cities. Shops existed, but they were just family kitchens serving food only on market days, most set up in privately built spaces with no outsiders renting premises.
After looking around, Chen Xin abandoned the idea of having Eldest Brother Zhang open a shop in town; she felt that raising bamboo rats was still the better fit for him.